Our sun protection guide - A deep dive

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Our sun protection guide - A deep dive

Many people love to spend time in the sun and in reasonable amounts the sun's rays have a positive effect on our health. After all, the sun is the source of all life on earth and vital to us humans. The sun contributes to health benefits such as D vitamin production, reduces the risk of type 2 diabetes, high blood pressure, blood clots and cardiovascular disease, provides improved circadian rhythm and increased well-being. An overexposure to the sun's UV radiation, on the other hand, can lead to problems such as painful, red and inflamed skin, but also cause more long-term effects such as premature aging of the skin with a rougher skin, wrinkles and pigment spots or, in the worst case, various forms of skin cancer. It is therefore important to sunbathe in moderation and think about protecting yourself when the sun is strong, primarily with a protective layer of clothing but also by using sunscreen products on the skin that is difficult to protect with, for example, clothing or a hat.

The sun's UV radiation and effects on the skin

The sun's rays consist of light with different energy content, among them the harmful ultraviolet (UV) rays. UV radiation is invisible to the human eye and is divided into different wavelength ranges – UVA, UVB and UVC. The UVC rays are the most energetic but are completely filtered out by the earth's protective ozone layer and therefore do not reach us on the earth's surface. Even the sun's UVB radiation is filtered out to a greater extent, but what reaches it can penetrate the outermost skin layer where it stimulates the melanocyte to produce more pigment, but unfortunately they can also cause DNA damage and skin cancer such as malignant melanoma. The sun's UVA radiation is not filtered out and penetrates even deeper into the skin layers, which leads to an acceleration of the skin's aging and causes fine lines, wrinkles and also dilated and visible blood vessels.

Sun protection guide

UV rays and UV index summed up

UVB

UVB penetrates the top skin layer (epidermis) but does not reach deeper into the skin (dermis). UVB does not pass through a glass window so you are protected indoors.

UVA

UVA can penetrate deeper into the skin, down to the dermis. UVA radiation also passes through a glass window.

UV index - tells us how dangerous the sun's rays are and when we need sun protection

The UV index is an international standard used to measure how intense - and thus harmful - the sun's UV rays are. The higher the UV index value, the stronger the UV radiation you are exposed to. With the help of the value, we can compare how intense the UV rays are at different places and times of the day or during the year, but also determine when we need to protect ourselves. An illustration of the UV index in Figure 1 shows how the UV index normally varies in Sweden.

In Scandinavian countries, the UV index is usually between 4 - 7 during the summer season and between 0-2 during the winter. With a low UV index (below 2) you normally do not need to use sunscreen, but with a higher UV index (>2) it is important to protect yourself because it increases the risks of the sun's negative effects.

Figure 1. An illustration of how the UV index normally varies in Sweden.

Sun protection products help you protect your skin

Sun protection products give you good protection against the sun's harmful UV rays. The sun protection factor (SPF) on the product mainly describes the product's protection against the sun's UVB radiation, where a higher SPF provides better protection. The highest SPF that you can see on a sun protection product in Europe is SPF 50+, which means that the product provides very high protection. It is also important that the product provides good UVA protection. Products marked with a UVA symbol (the letters UVA surrounded by a ring) show that the product provides sufficient and very good protection against the sun's UVA rays. We recommend the use of sunscreen products with SPF30 or higher to ensure that you receive a sufficiently high level of protection.

How does sunscreen work?

Sun protection products contain active substances called UV filters. These substances protect the skin by absorbing and reflecting the sun's UV rays, which reduces the amount of harmful UV radiation that penetrates the skin. To get effective, high and balanced protection against both UVA and UVB, a combination of different UV filters needs to be used. The product must also be applied in an even and thick layer to provide good protection. As the product can wear off, it is also important to reapply the sunscreen at regular intervals, especially if you have been swimming or exercising.

UV filters are usually divided into organic (chemical) filters and mineral filters (particle filters). The difference between the two forms is mainly that organic filters are soluble in the product, while mineral filters remain as particles. Another difference is also what they consist of, organic filters are based on carbon while mineral filters are as the word reveals – based on the minerals zinc or titanium. Some new and modern organic filters are also particulate and can therefore be seen as a variant of mineral filters or particulate filters, even though they consist of carbon compounds. Different UV filters have different properties and differ both in effectiveness, whether they protect against UVA or UVB and in how they affect the skin, and it is therefore important to make a careful choice when developing sunscreen. And of course it's important to be careful when choosing which sunscreen to use.

Organic filters

Most UV filters that are approved and used in sunscreens are organic filters. These are substances that are soluble in the product's oils or water and that mainly absorb the UV rays. Many prefer products with organic filters as they do not contribute to a white film upon application and provide a more pleasant product to use.

The higher the SPF, the more UV filters and higher concentrations must be used to get the intended effect. The higher concentrations mean that products with higher SPF often feel a little more greasy or sticky to apply than products with lower SPF.

There are many different organic filters in use and they have slightly different properties. Unfortunately, some organic UV filters can cause skin problems and have been linked to endocrine disrupting effects, allergy or instability. Hormone-disrupting substances can affect our body's endocrine (hormonal) system and then risk affecting our development, our immune system or body functions. Mainly, various benzophenones, camphor, salicylate and cinnamate derivatives have been linked to endocrine disrupting effects.

There are several reasons why these filters are still used. They are still legally allowed to be used, even in Europe, and are often found in old products that were produced when these filters were the only ones available. They are cheaper to buy and easy to use when making sunscreen products, a product group that is difficult and expensive to develop. Now that there are more modern and better UV filters, which do not have these properties, we think that you should choose these and that it is unnecessary to take the risk when there are better alternatives.

Some organic filters are also paradoxically sensitive to UV light. This means that they can be broken down in the presence of sunlight which reduces their sun protective properties, it is usually said that they are not photostable. In addition, in some cases, harmful substances can be formed that can cause allergies or other unwanted side effects.

For a consumer, it can be difficult to read and understand the list of ingredients and which filters are used in the product because the filters have complex names. We recommend that you look at the ingredient list on the product to be able to make a good choice of product when it comes to UV filters. In our table, which we link to further down in the article, you will find a summary of all UV filters used within the EU and our recommendations.

Mineral filter

A common misconception is that mineral filters only protect the skin from UV light by reflecting and scattering the UV light. That is only partly true; they reflect UV light, but a large part is absorbed in the same way as for the organic UV filters. Much of the reflection also occurs from visible light, which is why we see the (unwanted) white film on the skin.

Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are the two approved mineral filters that are often combined to provide optimal UV protection. Zinc oxide, together with titanium dioxide, provides very good protection against both UVB and UVA, and also protects against longer UVA wavelengths (340 to 400 nm). Both zinc and titanium dioxide are photostable, i.e. they are not broken down by sunlight, and do not react with other UV filters.

Smaller particles, so-called nanoparticles, also provide better protection against the sun's UV rays than larger particles. Another advantage of the smaller nanoparticles is also that the white coating that mineral filters can leave on the skin is reduced. The smaller the particles, the less of a white layer the filter leaves on the skin. Although the nanoparticles are small, they are still too large to penetrate the skin, and much larger than most other substances and UV filters used.

There is an identified risk of inhaling the particles and therefore they are not used in spray products, but in creams they are perfectly safe. Since 2013, it is mandatory to label products containing nanoparticles in the EU. For example, the ingredients list for a sunscreen might look like this: Zinc Oxide (nano).

In summary, mineral filters cannot penetrate the skin but remain on the skin's surface where they protect against the harmful UV radiation. It has a very low risk of causing allergies and has no hormone-disrupting effects, which means that mineral filters are often used in products for children and for people with sensitive skin. Both are used in Skinome's Sun Emulsion SPF50+ range.

Compilation of UV filters used today

We have summarized the most common UV filters used in sunscreens in our table under Substances to watch out for in sunscreen products which you can read here.

Things to consider when choosing sun protection

When choosing a sunscreen product, there are many things to consider in addition to which UV filters are included. Preferably choose a product that has at least SPF 30 and is marked with a UVA symbol (a ring with the letters UVA inside), the product then provides good protection against both UVA and UVB radiation. Also choose a photo-stable product because the effect will not diminish in the sun. By choosing products that are fragrance free, you are doing yourself and your skin a favor as perfumes are among the most allergenic substances used in cosmetic products, an effect that can even be exacerbated by sunlight. If possible, also avoid products with preservatives or unnecessary additives that are less good for your skin health or your skin microbiome.

Also use plenty of product. The amount recommended and used in all tests on the product is about one cupped hand for an adult body, which is more than most people use when applying their sunscreen. For the face, we usually recommend about the size of a thumb nail or two peas to get adequate protection. It is also good to apply to one part of the body at a time, and preferably repeatedly, to get as smooth, even and abundant an application as possible. Also remember to reapply the product if it wears off during the day, for example if you sweat, bathe or wipe your body or face.

Guide to finding the right product for you

What skin type you have matters. Fair-haired and red-haired people must protect themselves to a greater extent in order not to burn themselves.
How bright and strong the sun is. Check how high the UV index is in your area.
That your sunscreen gives you protection against both UVA and UVB. Choose a product with a UVA symbol that ensures you get good, broad-spectrum protection.
Choose a photostable product that does not lose its effect when you stay in the sun. See which UV filters are used.
Sun protection products with both mineral filters and new modern organic UV filters are best to ensure good protection against the sun.
Avoid perfumes, preservatives and other additives as they can cause problems for your skin.

Sun protection guide

Does it sound complicated to choose the right one?

We have already thought of all this in the development of our products. For safe, high-performance sun protection - choose Skinome Sun Emulsion SPF 30 or SPF 50+. Also feel free to do our sun protection test to find the product that suits your skin best.

TAKE OUR SUN PROTECTION TEST